The House Perched on a Mountain: Jilling Terraces Homestay in Nainital

A true testament to the charm of a good homestay is meeting fellow guests who’ve returned for their second or third stay. As for me, I was happily joining the ranks on my second visit.

Jilling Terraces in Uttarakhand’s South Gola range, about 1 hour away from Nainital, is a 90 year old house surrounded by nothing but 100 acres of uninhabited forest land. Christened the Chestnut House, this Nainital homestay was built in 1933 by a Sanskrit scholar for his Polish doctor wife pining for the cool climes of her country.

Holding up to its sweet promises, the homestay is like a warm hug in the winters and a refreshing glass of chilled nimbu pani in the summers. Among the many luxuries of life is the ability to while away time without experiencing an ounce of guilt, and Jilling is one of the few places that affords you this indulgence.

But more than anything, perhaps the biggest reason of them all to plan a stay at Jilling Terraces is the magic bullet that keeps flocks of raucous tourists away – a 1.5 km long and sinuous uphill trek that takes atleast an hour for city folks.  

That and a mesmerising, almost private ridge that serves sunsets that paint the sky over the valley in stunning hues. Once is never enough – you’ll keep coming back for more.

Discover the Chestnut House

Meals and Pastimes

Outdoor & Surrounds

Tariff

Discover Jilling Terraces - Homestay in Nainital

It takes an 8-9 hour drive from Delhi, followed by an hour-long trek to reach the cottage. But all is forgiven once you tread foot on its menagerie of pups, cats, horses and mules – the latter being the only mode to transport daily essentials, fire wood and every so often, the odd guest.   

Perched atop a hill, Jilling Terraces homestay in Nainital welcomes you into its world of gum-boots donning friendly bhaiyas, tea served with generous boxes of bakery cookies, and vibrant, sun-kissed rooms with thoughtfully planned nooks and corners.

The house has six self-contained cottages, evocatively named after local trees in the region – Padam, Buransh, Kafal, Ringol, Utish and the newly added, deliciously private, Oak Cottage. Two of them are cosier and ideal for a couple while the others have with an ante room, fireplace, small kitchenette and even a terrace – perfect for families.

Meals & Pastimes at Jilling Terraces

All meals are served on the objet d'art, an oak and pine wood table: the centrepiece of the dining and recreation room. Under the watchful eyes of Dali, guests of Jilling Terraces sit together for meal times or to collaborate on a 1,000 piece jigsaw puzzle.

All meals, including desserts, are delightfully home-cooked with the smell wafting through the air from the kitchen nearby, as you wait in anticipation for the medley of hot pots and casseroles to be served on the table.

Meals are an integral part of the homestay experience and Jilling Terraces has perfected its wholesome recipes for guests looking for pahadi-style comfort food. A typical meal includes dal, three to four kinds of curries and vegetables, salad, raita, achaar and fresh rotis. The staff is happy to make small customisations if you tell them in advance. An evening barbecue is also possible at an additional cost.

The dining room is also equipped with an enviable collection of books, puzzles and board games which can keep you comfortably entertained for a night or two. Whether it's a rainy day or a cold evening, there's always something to enjoy indoors.

Outdoors & Surrounds at Jilling Terraces

All my favorite moments at Jilling Terraces start with a cup of tea and dragging a chair outside in the sun to gape at the Nanda Devi and surrounding peaks.

As the day progresses, the staff encourages you to pack a chatai, some board games, a book and head to the ridge, only a 7-10 minutes easy climb away from the house. In a few hours, hot lunch follows, neatly bundled and hand-delivered by the staff in a large tiffin box and several small boxes filled with delightful accompaniments so you don’t miss out on anything, even 7,000 ft above.

Several small treks start from the ridge and take you down to the village, up to a local temple and some other great spots in between to laze around. Just keep track of the path you’re taking as running into other people is likely only if you’re walking towards the village. The team at Jilling can also organise guided treks ranging from 5-10 kms depending on how long you want to be out for.

The old Chestnut House brimming with new charm is an undisturbed and surprisingly undiscovered retreat in the hopelessly crowded Nainital and surrounding landscape. From a vantage point 7,000 feet above, the prospect of ascending and descending from the house throughout your stay becomes only a distant thought. Yet, you leave knowing that this is a path you will surely be treading again.

Tariff at Jilling Terraces

The Chestnut House has two large suites Buransh and Utish on the ground floor and two mini suites with double beds Padam and Kafal on the first floor. Ringol and Oak are independent self contained cottage that can host a family. The mini suites can be booked for Rs 11,500 per night on double occupancy while the bigger rooms are priced at Rs 13,500 per night. The price includes a porter to help with your bags, meals and tea/coffee.